“A gentleman’s choice of timepiece says as much about him as does his Saville Row suit.” – Ian Fleming
A watch is the one piece of jewelry that a man can wear on any occasion. The choice of timepiece is one of the best ways to express your individuality and style. In this modern world a designer timepiece is not a right of passage anymore and this has resulted in many high level people wearing a cheap watch. This is a great shame as a watch is an item you can use for years and then hand down to your children (with all its history).
I personally believe all people should have a $4,000+ watch by the age of twenty-five. The watch does not need to be flashy or imposing; in fact the contrary is desirable. I am a firm believer in long established style icons.
Patek Philippe Calatrava
Patek Philippe is to watches what Rolls Royce is to cars. Patek Philippe holds the title for being the best watchmaker in the world. There is a lot of truth in this claim; Patek Philippe is definitively one of a group of makers regarded as the best. The other top echelon Swiss names are :- Audemars Piguet, Breguet, Vacheron Constantin and the German maker A. Lange & Sohne.
Patek Philippe is considered the best by most aficionados however all the above mentioned brands are special. The question of who is the best is subjective. It is like asking who makes the best car in the world. Is it Rolls Royce, Maybach or Bugatti? One thing is clear and this is all these brands are special.
Patek Philippe pieces constantly sell at auctions for record high prices. These are usually for vintage pieces made in small numbers. Not all Pateks are extremely valuable. Many 1970s quartz Pateks have aged and are now out of flavor as they are quartz and also are in a dated design.
I have owned several quartz Pateks and they represent good value. The only danger is that an old quartz movement may fail and there is only one path for repair – the official Patek agent. This could make for an expensive repair.
The most famous model in the Patek range is the Calatrava series. This range was introduced in 1932 following the Bauhaus design rules of form and function. In my opinion a Calatrava in gold on a leather strap is the epitome of the perfect dress watch. I believe all models of Pateks would make an excellent addition to a collection. With this brand you simply can not go wrong.
Most modern Pateks can be bought for a good discount on the used market. The key is knowing a few trustworthy vintage watch dealers. If the piece is however your only Patek; buying new does also have merit. Due to Patek’s annual volume being so low stock is always hard to find.
Rolex DateJust
The Rolex DateJust is the number one selling watch in the Rolex range. The model has been overshadowed in recent times by Rolexes sports models. This is a great shame as the DateJust is a superb watch.
On the secondary market today the DateJust is excellent buying value. Originally a DateJust would have been similar if not more expensive than a steel Submariner or other sports Rolex. On the used market vales for a good DateJust are lower than a comparable sports Rolex.
The DateJust has many things going for it. It is waterproof thanks to its Oyster case. It has an excellent automatic movement with a date feature. The model also features either a Jubilee or Oyster bracelet. The Jubilee bracelet gives the watch a smart formal appearance whilst the Oyster bracelet adds to its sporting flair.
The DateJust comes in either steel, two tone (steel and gold) or solid 18K gold. All models are similar enjoying the same quality movement. On the secondary market the price of steel and two tone pieces are very similar. If you are a fan of two tone this can represent good value buying – as you are getting the gold for virtually nothing.
A DateJust is an excellent addition to any gentleman’s wardrobe. The piece is classic yet in steel it can be discreet and low key. The DateJust is probably the most usable watch in this entire list.
Rolex Submariner
The Rolex Submariner is probably the most recognized Rolex after the DateJust and President Day-Date. The Submariner was made famous by James Bond in the very first Bond film.
Questions about wearing a sports watch with a suit can be answered by a quick reference to Sean Connery as 007 in the first Bond move, Dr No.
The Submariner has enjoyed continual popularity over the years. The Submariner was ahead of its time when it was released. It was always a large watch before this was the fashion.
Steel Submariners hold their value exceptionally well. It may be better to buy new and enjoy the buying experience. Two tone Submariners are better bought on the used market through a trusted vintage watch dealer.
Probably the most imposing watch I have ever worn is the solid yellow gold submariner. This item is a very special piece that is a very heavy item weighing much more than the steel version.
Be sure to get a watchmaker to check the watch seals are intact before using the watch in water. A pressure test is vital to ensure it is watertight and safe for underwater use.
Omega Speedmaster – Man on the Moon Watch
The Omega Speedmaster Man on the Moon watch is one of the few bargains in the luxury watch segment. The watch is an iconic piece which proudly touts “the first watch worn on the moon.” The watch is the official NASA certified timepiece for space missions in the 1960s and 1970s.
Do not confuse the watch with its slightly smaller automatic cousin. The only piece to get is the original manual wind piece with acrylic glass. The automatic version is not the moon watch.
Buying new the Omega can be had for a song. To the novice it is safer to buy the later 861 movement model from a reputable vintage watch dealer or buy new.
The watch has enjoyed very little change since the original 321 movement version. The 321 version commands a hefty premium but is still good buying. This is Omega’s version of the Rolex Daytona.
Care should be taken as this watch is not waterproof. This piece is ideal for the office or weekends off.
Breitling Navitimer
The Breitling Navitimer is another iconic chronograph. It also represents excellent buying especially in the secondary market. Buying either vintage or modern you will adore this watch for years to come.
Breitling is famous for its wonderful precise dials and the Navitimer does not disappoint. The Navitimer now comes in a few different flavors. This includes the Navitimer World, Cosmonaute, Montbrillant, Montbrillant Legende, Montbrillant Olympus and Montbrillant Datora.
All models are good value and represent good buying.
If buying new ensure you negotiate a good price as Breitling models do not hold value as well as a steel sports Rolex. Buying used from a reputable dealer will overcome this reduction to some extent.
Breitling has also used a highly polished steel surface. In recent times this has been very
fashionable. Being a chronograph caution needs to be taken around water.
Louis Cartier Tank
The Cartier Tank is a design icon that has stood the test of time well. John F Kennedy was an owner of a Cartier Tank as was his stylish wife.
The Cartier Tank has spawned a few variations however the original model is probably the best. The original Tank for men is possibly a touch too small by modern standards however this model should not be discarded.
The Louis Cartier Tank should not be confused with the gold plated Must de Cartier Tank or Cartier Tank Solo. Both of these models are not solid gold and should be avoided.
The 18K gold Louis Cartier Tank has in recent years been available only as a quartz piece. Ideally a pre-owned mechanical version should be the best piece to own.
Cartier Santos
The modern Cartier Santos was introduced in 1978 as a classy sports watch to compete with the Rolex DateJust. An earlier version first came out in 1904 which featured a flat wristwatch with a distinctive square bezel. The newer Santos was famous for highlighting the watches screws – something that traditional high quality Swiss makers always tried to hide previously. The newer Santos was also Cartier’s first watch to treat steel like a precious metal.
The Santos was named after the Brazilian aviator and Cartier customer Alberto Santo-Dumont.
Prior to the introduction of the Santos Cartier had two model lines. The exclusive solid gold line (Louis Cartier) and the gold plated Must de Cartier line. With the introduction of the steel and steel and gold Santos Cartier had a watch for the large middle ground watch buyer.
Jaeger LeCoutre Reverso
The Jaeger LeCoutre Reverso was originally released in 1931 for polo players who needed a sturdy watch. The Reverso was revolutionary as it allowed the watch to flip around to protect the glass and front.
The Reverso is the one watch I prefer in steel to any other material. The Reverso is such a fantastic watch that the choice of material makes very little difference. Whilst I have owned this model in 18K gold and also steel – it is the steel version I miss most.
The Reverso is excellent buying used on the secondary market however be aware that it may be just as inexpensive new through heavy discounting. I have seen cases where some Jaeger LeCoutre retailers have heavily discounted some Reverso models to clear stock (admittedly this was after the GFC). If you can locate a larger size steel mechanical model at a great price – new maybe the way to go.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
Audemars Piguet is one of the most respected Swiss watchmakers in the world. Audemars Piguet is considered one of the top three watchmakers along side Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe. The Royal Oak model is Audemar Piguet’s most well known model. It was designed by the famous designer Gerald Gentra. The Royal Oak was Audemars Piguet’s first model to treat steel as a precious metal. The Royal Oak model was released in 1972.
The Royal Oak is available in a range of materials including steel, steel and gold, solid gold, and various expensive alloys.
The model has also spawned many variants with the chronograph function. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph is a large sized piece which has been popular despite its high price tag.
On the used market all Royal Oaks represent excellent buying. The first release is a collector’s item and is somewhat in demand. Quartz variants have been hurt by negative collector sentiment towards quartz and are bargains provided you can live with the movement. Best buying would be a large size steel automatic version.
Lange 1
A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1
The Lange 1 is an amazing watch which has that quality feel to it. A. Lange & Sohne is a long established German watchmaker that disappeared after WWII. With the fall of the Berlin Wall and the collapse of the East German government the founders great-grandson, Walter Lange, combined with the might of the Richemont group re-established the brand.
The Lange 1 was the first new watch to be released after a 40 year break. The Lange 1 is special in that it combines traditional pocket watch characteristics in a wristwatch. The Lange 1 is a manual wind piece with the special charm of having a separate section for each function – time, seconds, date and power reserve.
The Lange 1 is a watch one could enjoy without needing another high end piece. Due to the small production run of Lange they are scarce on the used market. The Lange 1 is a true Holy Grail price for the connoisseur.
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